From desert introduction to after work burns Moab's local crags are a great way to spend the day.

Undeniably the most accessible cragging spot around Moab with traditional, sport, and mixed climbing ranging from 5.5 – 5.12+ just off the road. Wall Street remains in the sun from morning through mid afternoon.

Gear: 60 meter rope, Standard Traditional Rack, harness, and two pairs of shoes for crack and technical face climbing.

Guide Book: Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green, Desert Rock II by Eric BjØrnstad (out of print)

A popular spot for climbers looking for more relaxed climbing with traditional and sport routes ranging from 5.6 – 5.11c. The Ice Cream Parlor receives sun from early to late afternoon.

Gear: 60 meter rope, Standard Traditional Rack, harness, shoes for face climbing on small pockets and ledges.

Guide Book: Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green, Desert Rock III by Eric BjØrnstad

Looking for Indian Creek quality cracks without the crowds? Day and Long Canyon offer quality Wingate cracks off the beaten path in the 5.10 and 5.11 range.

Gear: 60 meter rope, Standard Desert Rack, harness, Crack Shoes.

Guide Book: Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green

Leave the rope at home and strap on your little shoes for pulling down on these sand stone pebbles. Though Moab is most known for its sand stone spires and splitter cracks the area's bouldering can give you a much needed rest when your hands have gobies and your cams need a good cleaning.

Moab's primo bouldering area stacked with problems from V0 – V11 making Big Bend ideal for folks looking to hook up with other climbers for an afternoon burn session or all day fun.

Gear: Shoes, generally a down turned sport/bouldering shoe will work best on the overhangs and thin edges, Boulder Pad, Chalk.

Guide Book: Utah Bouldering by Chris Grijalva, a Bouldering Guide to Utah by Jeff Baldwin, Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp

Crack climbing in a horizontal world. Slap on your tape gloves for this eighty foot roof crack that has everything from wide to thin hands, fist jams, and ring locks. Boulder problems outside the cave mark the start of the rout seen in Masters of Stone V as well as giving you a break from seemingly endless jamming.

Gear: Tape and lots of it, Boulder Pad, Crack Shoes, and Chalk.

Guide Book: Desert Rock IV by Eric BjØrnstad

With hundreds of cracks splitting its Wingate buttresses, Indian Creek has been marked a climber's destination for decades. From finger shredding tips cracks through perfect hands to gut wrenching off-widths you can find anything to fit your climbing needs.

Gear: Two 60 meter ropes though a 70 meter is nice, Standard Desert Rack plus additional gear in your preferred size, harness, Crack Shoes, Tape.

Guide Books: Indian Creek – A Climber's Guide 2nd Edition by David Bloom, Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green

Desert climbing the way it was meant to be.

"Steep walls with mud curtains, fluted chimneys, and undulating bulges soar overhead. Stone diving boards protrude from grotesquely twisted summits… To climb here is to submit oneself to several days of abuse, including fear, frustration, intimidation, and an all-encompassing grime. When touched, the dry mud veneer disintegrates to pebbles and grit, filling the air to the point of suffocation." –Katy Cassidy & Earl Wiggins, Canyon Country Climbs, 1989

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, Aid Gear depending on individual climb, harness, Crack Shoes

Guide Books: Desert Rock III by Eric BjØrnstad, Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green

Home to some of the most classic desert climbs Castle Valley has been witness to summit top car commercials and haul bag Bar-B-Qs. Aside from the area's colorful history Castle Valley's Castleton Tower, Priest, Nun, Rectory, and Sister Superior offer amazing multi-pitch tower climbing and true desert splendor.

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, harness, Crack Shoes, Tape

Guide Books: Desert Rock III by Eric BjØrnstad, Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green

Though the park has seen many changes since the days of Edward Abbey's wilderness the towers and sandstone spires he wrote about remain unchanged. The blue bird sky and snow capped La Sal Mountains still leave a climber with a feeling of Desert Solitaire.**

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, Aid Gear depending on individual climb, harness, Crack Shoes, Colored Chalk*

Guide Books: Desert Rock by Eric BjØrnstad, Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green

Accessible by the Needles District or Island in the Sky Canyonlands offers tower climbing at all levels of adventure. Be mindful of local weather and road conditions if climbing in Canyonlands, as the climbing is not always the crux of your journey. For road conditions check with the National Park Service.**

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, Aid Gear depending on individual climb, harness, Crack Shoes, Colored Chalk*

Guide Books: Desert Rock by Eric BjØrnstad, Classic Desert Climbs by Fred Knapp, Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart Green

Link to park service web site for white rim road conditions



*Please note Colored or Non Marking Chalk is required for climbing in the National Parks.


**Please remember when on the rock you are not alone. The National Parks receive tens of thousands of visitors who wish to observe the beauty and natural wonder of the area we love so much. When climbing please be respectful to those visitors by doing what you can to not draw attention toward yourself and your partner.